How Karl Kani Pioneered Brooklyn Streetwear Into Global Fashion Trends
By Cassell Ferere originally published on Forbes.com
When you think of streetwear, you likely think of oversized hoodies and baggy jeans, clothing you see worn today. Contemporary streetwear trends have come full circle and replicated in high fashion among familiar labels. For these trends to become what they are and were, someone had to infiltrate and break the norms of the fashion industry.
Today, the MAGIC and PROJECT bi-annual trade show helps streetwear fashion brands find their place. The display of styles is free from the rigid designs of yesteryear. The show features upcoming styles from brands like Doctrine Denim, Awet, Primitive, Pro Standard, and Honor The Gift have all had impacts on streetwear culture stemming from the urban aesthetic of inner-city street kids.
This year at MAGIC, which took place at the Las Vegas Convention Center, the Project Now Forum stage held the 50th Anniversary of Hip Hop at MAGIC Happy Hour panel, hosted by long-time Editor-in-chief Datwon Thomas now at VIBE magazine. Panel guests James Ferrel, Chief Operation Officer, Head of Marketing of Sprayground, Jason Geter, CEO of Grand Hustle, and Tony Shellman, founder of the Mecca and Enyce labels and Brand Marketing Executive Consultant, gathered alongside and in celebration of the fashion label and businessman, Karl Kani, born Carl Williams.
The arguable founding father of the streetwear aesthetic of fashion Karl Kani was honored with a lifetime achievement award. This honor comes after over three decades of constantly pursuing his passion for creating a sartorial language that at first broke the norms of fashion manufacturing with raw denim looks in multiple colors. Heavy knit, embroidered crew neck sweaters and the infamous leather and metallic tag that bore the “Kan-I” signature that was subversive in its messaging. The name was introduced to the world at one of the first MAGIC Las Vegas show.
“I remember coming to these MAGIC shows back in 1991, and there was none of us here - at all,” the designer recalls. “It was just my company and Cross Colors, and that was it. You didn't see anybody of our skin color or tone here. You may see one or two kids who may have worked for a store in the inner city, with the owner - coming through just as an assistant for the store owner. There wasn't 'us' here.”
Karl Kani defied its initial bounds, “we had to break through all those grounds and open up the doors for people to show that you can be black, have your own clothing brand of good quality, and compete against the ‘big dogs’ out there.” Karl Kani was on a mission to “change the mentality of kids buying Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger, and Calvin Klein, which was a groundbreaking thing we had to do as a company.”
In the years of navigating the evolving fashion industry, Karl Kani still managed to be ahead of his time. “We've had a couple of big moments - one of our biggest moments is when we were the first streetwear featured in the NBA. We had 15 NBA players wearing our sneakers on the basketball court. Names like John Wallace from the New York Knicks, Derek Fisher from the Lakers, Carl Malone, and Dominique Wilkins from Atlanta Hawks were wearing our sneakers. We had a game plan, and we executed it.”
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