Sewing Seams: Tips for Matching Fabric Patterns
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By PAGE Editor
Matching prints when sewing, be it stripes, plaids, florals or geometric patterns, is a crucial step that elevates the overall quality and professionalism of a finished project. Proper print matching ensures that patterns flow naturally across seams, pockets and hems, preventing distracting breaks or misalignments.
Although print matching does require some planning, precision and attention to detail, mastering this technique allows you to showcase your skills and create pieces that look thoughtfully constructed and aesthetically pleasing. Here is what you need to know to skillfully print-match your next sewing project.
How Different Patterns Can Influence The Pattern-Matching Process
When shopping for fabrics for garment making, it’s easy to fall in love with eye-catching designs with bold prints, intricate plaids, or striking geometric patterns. While these might look stunning, their complex or directional patterns can present challenges when it comes to matching seams or aligning motifs.
The size, repetition, and nature of each pattern differ, impacting where and how they are matched. For example, florals usually have a precise repeat point, such as the heart of a flower, which can help you choose a matching fabric, but coastal designs typically include flowing components that require careful alignment for a seamless finish. Abstract patterns, on the other hand, typically allow more flexibility, but they, too, must be considered for continuity.
The easiest pattern to match when sewing is typically small, non-directional prints such as tiny polka dots, scattered floral patterns, or abstract designs. These patterns don’t have a specific direction or large, distinct elements that need alignment, so mismatched areas are less noticeable.
Identifying the Pattern Repeat
Before sewing your fabric, take a thorough look at it to figure out where the pattern repeats. A pattern repeat is the point when a design or pattern on fabric repeats itself. In textile design, patterns usually have a precise layout that repeats at regular intervals horizontally and vertically, which is usually indicated by a separate element within the print.
To identify the pattern repetition, lay your chosen fabric down so you can easily see the pattern, then examine the print from the edge. Starting from the edge inward, look for a distinguishing element inside the pattern, such as a huge flower or pattern; it should be easy to see and close to the cloth edge.
Deciding Where to Match
To get a precise pattern match, carefully consider where to attach the fabric. Choose a noticeable section of the pattern that fills a natural gap, rather than overly prominent elements. For instance, you wouldn't want to connect the edge or middle of a design because any little misalignments would be noticeable.
Instead, turn to the side and look for a plain space, such as where two leaves meet in a floral design. If you're unsure about where to pattern match, fold the fabric in different sections to get a sense of how it will look when combined.
Preparing the Fabric for Pattern Matching
Once you've located the repeat and determined where you'll connect the fabric together, it's time to get ready for matching. Start by cutting the backing fabric in half lengthwise. Fold one piece at the desired pattern-matching spot and then place the other piece, right sides facing up.
Once both pieces are in position, place the folded edge on the right side of the first piece and the second piece, aligning the pattern on the fold. Check that the pattern matches along the fold, then carefully open it and pin the cloth in place, paying attention to any distinguishing signs.
Pinning the Fabric
The next step is to pin your fabric so it stays where you're sewing. Consider pinning the fabric in two phases to improve precision. Start by pinning within the crease line; this allows you to fold back the edge and ensure that the pattern still matches and nothing has slipped out of position. Then consider pinning horizontally between the other pins to keep everything in place while stitching the seam.
If you're having trouble pinning the fabric in place, or if you're working with very heavy or long fabrics for garment, double-sided tape can help. This adds stability and prevents the fabric from moving. Place it on the right side of the fold, furthest from the fabric edge, then peel off the top layer when ready to press the fabrics together. If you think you still need additional stability, add a couple more pins.
Sewing
The best way to sew patterned fabric is with a sewing machine and a walking foot. This designed foot helps feed several layers of fabric uniformly, lowering the chance of it shifting.
Once you've set up your machine, select a thread colour that compliments or blends in with the fabric. Set up your thread and choose a stitch that is appropriate for the type of material. Begin feeding the fabric through, stitching the lengths together.
Consider stopping regularly to ensure that the pattern matching is continuous across the seam. If you notice any mistakes, you can undo a tiny selection and restitch it to ensure the pattern matches properly. Continue stitching until the seam is complete.
Challenges
After learning how to match patterns, you may believe it's simple enough; nonetheless, it may still present some challenges. For example, connecting patterned materials with elaborate patterning may pose extra challenges in obtaining a seamless match. Remember to find the main elements in the design and use them as reference points to align your fabric. This strategy streamlines the process and improves precision.
Furthermore, heavier fabrics or longer lengths are more prone to shift during stitching, causing misalignments in your joints. To keep everything secured and aligned, use techniques such as double-sided sticky tape and pins to help stabilise each layer.
Another key aspect of pattern matching is the finishing touches, which make all the difference when finalising the overall look. So, take the time to cut any excess fabric from the seam allowance. This will provide a polished and professional impression.
Handling these challenges with a careful and strategic eye ensures that your pattern-matching efforts are ultimately worthwhile, delivering a visually attractive and coherent result.
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