As Basel Convention Talks Intensify, The Global Secondhand Textile Economy Faces A Defining Moment
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By PAGE Editor
For decades, the global secondhand clothing trade has quietly functioned as one of the fashion industry's most effective circular systems. Long before sustainability became a corporate mandate or circularity emerged as a boardroom buzzword, millions of garments were already being collected, sorted, exported, resold, repaired and worn again across international markets.
Now, that system may be entering one of its most consequential policy chapters.
As delegates convene in Geneva for the 15th Meeting of the Open-ended Working Group (OEWG-15) under the Basel Convention, discussions surrounding the classification and movement of used textiles are expected to take center stage. At issue are proposals that could subject certain shipments of used clothing to Prior Informed Consent (PIC) procedures or potentially classify some textile exports as waste—a regulatory shift that industry stakeholders say could reshape the economics of global textile reuse.
Among those participating in the discussions is Jessica Franken, Vice President of Government & External Affairs at the Secondary Materials and Recycled Textiles Association (SMART), one of the leading organizations representing textile reuse and recycling operators.
The debate arrives at a time when fashion's sustainability ambitions have never been more ambitious—or more scrutinized. Governments worldwide are introducing extended producer responsibility frameworks, textile waste legislation and new reporting requirements designed to address the environmental consequences of overproduction. Yet many stakeholders argue that policies intended to reduce waste must also preserve the systems that successfully keep products in circulation.
The secondhand textile economy represents a critical example.
According to industry advocates, global reuse networks extend garment lifespans, reduce landfill dependency and create employment opportunities throughout a complex international value chain. From collection facilities in North America and Europe to resale markets throughout Africa, Latin America and Asia, the ecosystem supports thousands of businesses and millions of consumers seeking affordable clothing options.
The challenge facing policymakers is determining where reuse ends and waste begins.
Supporters of tighter controls contend that stronger oversight could prevent the export of unusable textile material under the guise of secondhand goods. Critics, however, warn that broad classifications risk disrupting legitimate reuse markets that are already delivering measurable environmental benefits.
That distinction is expected to be a focal point throughout the Geneva discussions.
A particularly noteworthy moment during OEWG-15 will be a side event organized by the Bureau of International Recycling (BIR), titled Used Textiles in Practice: Trade, Impacts and Development Pathways. The session will feature findings from recent research conducted by the United Nations Conference on Trade and Development (UNCTAD), which examined imported secondhand clothing in Uganda and Tanzania.
The study analyzed nearly 250,000 garments and found that the overwhelming majority were suitable for reuse and resale—a finding that could add important context to ongoing policy conversations surrounding textile exports and waste classification.
The implications extend far beyond trade mechanics.
As fashion brands accelerate investments in resale platforms, textile recycling technologies and circular business models, the infrastructure supporting global reuse markets has become increasingly intertwined with broader sustainability objectives. Restrictions that unintentionally limit garment circulation could create downstream consequences for both environmental outcomes and economic opportunity.
"These discussions have significant implications for millions of people who rely on textile reuse and resale markets around the world," Franken said in advance of the meeting. "As policymakers consider future regulatory approaches, it is critical that decisions are informed by evidence and recognize the important role that reuse plays in extending product lifespans, supporting jobs, and advancing circularity."
Her comments underscore a broader tension currently facing the fashion industry: balancing environmental safeguards with the realities of a global circular economy that remains heavily dependent on international trade.
For brands, recyclers, governments and resale operators alike, Geneva represents more than another regulatory meeting. The outcomes and recommendations emerging from OEWG-15 could influence future Basel Convention negotiations and ultimately help define how used textiles are regulated across borders for years to come.
As the fashion industry searches for scalable solutions to its waste problem, the conversation unfolding in Geneva may serve as a reminder that circularity is not only about designing the next generation of sustainable products. It is also about protecting and strengthening the systems that have been extending product lifespans all along.
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As delegates gather in Geneva for Basel Convention OEWG-15, proposed regulations on used textile shipments are sparking debate over how to balance environmental protections with the economic and circularity benefits of the global secondhand clothing trade.